When Hitomi Niya‘s biggest fan asked me what I liked about Tokyo while we shuffled from the 38km marathon cheer zone to the finish chute via Tokyo Station, I could not get a word out before I hesitated and mumbled “architecture” …just because Tokyo Station was right there. We were not running the marathon, just spectating.
*Hitomi Niya is the Japanese half marathon record holder, won Houston Marathon in 2022 and was the first Japanese female to cross the finish line at Tokyo Marathon 2024.
I did not know how to round up my answer, there’s so much I find exciting about Japan, it’s mind boggling. I can’t go all in at once. So, when my sister casually told me she was running Tokyo, my eyes grew wide because I read Kipchoge wanted to defend his 2022 title and Sifan Hassan wanted to go for the win. I visualized all kinds of unrealistic scenarios meeting the pros and taking selfies in a crowd of over tens of thousands of fans.
Feeling overwhelmed of all the exciting things I wanted to uncover in Tokyo, I chose to keep it simple. My goal was to stroll around the Tokyo 2024 marathon route leaving out my appreciation of their appreciation for classical music, food, cats, art, books, the Nikkei, Toyota, USDJYP but I shall not digress. Besides, “spectators” have to be prepared too.
They are obsessed with long distance running, Haruki Murakami’s “When I talk about Running” goes into the world of Ekiden, a long distance relay race watched by almost everyone in Japan. The most popular “Hakone Ekiden” takes place over 2 days after new years to mark new beginnings where universities in Tokyo compete over 217.1 kilometers. The runners start running over thousands of miles from high school exemplifying hard work at a young age. The history of Ekiden is no different to the history of the Marathon in Greece some time 300-400 BC, which according to Herodotus the Greek Historian there are conflicting sources about what went down and who actually went down delivering the message of victory – they defeated the Persians. Was it “Pheidippides”, “Thersippos” or “Eukles”? Nevertheless, one of them “hit the wall” and in the absence of energy drinks, salts and gels that proliferate the running industry nowadays, he dropped dead and so did Darius the Great.
The idea of Ekiden began in the 1600s during the Edo Period when couriers were sent to deliver messages from Tokyo to Kyoto (the old imperial capital) but officially the races started in 1920. Besides I balled when Yuri Kawauchi won the Boston Marathon in 2018. Just a running obsessed guy from Japan, an amateur (now Pro) who worked in government, trained everyday (still trains) and then wins Boston in severe weather, what a dream!
In the meantime, I accomplished my dream at Dubai Airport, at 3:30am. Flight delayed, stranger from Cape Town starts a monologue about D&I (diversity and inclusion). Are you kidding me? I felt for her but apologetically tell her I don’t have the means nor the answer to solve this problem. I head over to the gate and silently “cried for” a lighthearted encounter. Yup, Kipchoge was there, he was on my flight. His training partner kindly took a photo of us. I send to all the fans I know.
Day 1 – Shinjuku – Shibuya
I have no idea which exit to take at one of the many Shinjuku stations. First of all, I stepped off the train at the wrong Shinjuku Station because there’s a few Shinjuku Stations. I speculate and (as always) got it wrong. It was the furthest away from Tokyo Metropolitan Building, the Marathon Start Line. By good luck, I end up in Isetan’s basement food court and go around in circles because I’m amazed at all the food and reminisce my life eating away in Singapore. I buy an Octopus salad and see signs everywhere that eating in the basement is not allowed and there are designated areas on the top floor to eat.
I then head to Tokyo Metropolitan Building, a colossal of a building with a free observatory for those who want to capture Tokyo’s skyline and Mount Fuji on a good day. It was a good day to take a view from the bottom too and compare my size to the building.
I veer off the marathon route and head to Shibuya via Mei Ji Shrine and stop at two signs, one that leads to Yoyogi Park and one to Harajuku. I follow the sign to Harajuku because I’m an absolute sucker for trendy shop windows, the quirky buzz and ‘conduct fashion market research‘. I stroll down Jingumae and Omote Sande Avenue which leads me to Shibuya. I hear later that the Elite Runners train at Yoyogi Park.
I arrive after work hours and observe the dress code of elegant salary men and women crossing the Shibuya Intersection oblivious to the hundreds of tourists waving selfie sticks up in the air. I cross from all angles surrounded by colorful LED screens. The energetic atmosphere is a perfect example of what Tokyo represents (in my opinion) a constant cacophony of ads and squeaky voices blaring out of screens and machines, pedestrian crossings overflowing with activity that feels programmed and phone addiction.
Day 2 – Imperial Palace – Shiba/Mita
From where I stay in Ginza, I run towards the Imperial Palace, the Marathon ends here and complete a run workout in the morning. The loop around the palace is 5k and close to the hotel so I could commit to my training program for no race in particular. It’s also a great way to burn the irresistibly delicious calories found in “family marts”, 7/11s, department store basements, just anywhere really. Local and international runners were doing shake out runs with their groups, sporting the latest AI designed cheater fly carbon fiber shoes, while the organizers were setting up the race village and frantically ticking off their check lists.
I take the train to Minato, a quieter district and what looks like Eiffel Tower looms over. It’s the Tokyo Tower, a comms and observation tower I get to via Shiba Park. The Zojogi Temple grounds lit up with incense and grey moss covered child statues adorned in colorful knitwear. I learn they are Jizo statues that offer protection to children, parents whose children left them too early and travelers.
I hung around the bottom of the Tower. It overflowed with tourists who wanted to head to the observatory and capture the Tokyo skyline. Meanwhile, I chose to walk along the unexciting Hibiya Dori Street springing away from cyclists and scooters approaching from every angle. I forget they have the right of way and the right to ride into you.
I survive the walk to Azabujuban, an expat residential neighborhood veering off the marathon course again. It was too retro for my taste as I walked by a mixture of restaurants that served Western food and Shawarmas while an array of Japanese sweet and bread shops tucked in between. A good find if you’re into cheesecake, bean paste and shaved ice. I just wanted a coke. As usual, my curiosity got the better of me and I rushed back to the lights at Ginza.
CRAYSCAPE 
Oh my, another very interesting trip, Sarah. You always surprise me with your choices, and although Japan is a popular destination these days, it is your reason for visiting that is really quite unusual. As always, it is a delight to experience it through your eyes. I’m definitely looking forward to the next installments.
Thanks for your kind words Jolandi, it means a lot coming from a wonderful writer like yourself. I wanted to build the trip to Tokyo around something purposeful, I’m a big fan of running so this experience was out of the ordinary. Otherwise, there is so much to do in Tokyo it’s impossible to write about all at once..
What a lovely compliment, Sarah. Thank you. I admire everyone who loves to run, as I am useless at it. Walking on the other hand is something I enjoy, and I guess you got plenty of that in Tokyo. I adore trips that focus on something specific, especially when going to a place that has just too much to offer otherwise. It is a great way to centre oneself and to build a trip from. What I did notice from this piece is how quickly you become distracted and wander off, which is something that makes me giggle, as it is such a wonderful way to plunge into the unknown and discover new things instead of planning every step out in advance, which is so tempting and easy to do these days.