Day 7, Sombrero Chino (Chinese Hat)
We anchored off the coast of Santiago Island, an islet that supposedly “looked” like an Asian conical hat. Personally? I couldn’t see it. Either it required massive imagination or I was staring at the wrong chunk of rock. What I could see, however, was that the island was teeming with life: Sally lightfoot crabs, Galapagos sea lions, marine iguanas and allegedly some penguins.
The moment we stepped onto the white sand, we had a celebrity sighting. Leading a departing tour group was Tui De Roy, the Galapagos’ most famous resident, who moved to the archipelago at the age of two and grew up to become a legendary conservationist and photographer. As her group wrapped up their shoot and pointed across the water toward Isla Sante Fe, we happily poached their viewing spot to marvel at the landscape.
Later, we moved into the massive lava field, and here is where the real drama began. Sally lightfoot crabs and marine iguanas were in constant battle with the crashing tide and iguanas dove in and out of the surf to graze on algae. As the light shifted, their scales glittered like gold under the sun’s rays, an ethereal moment only ruined by iguanas aggressively sneezing saltwater out of their nostrils.
The chaotic high surf environment was the perfect trial and introduction to photography on the upcoming places on our itinerary where we were expecting to see a higher density of animals.
As for the penguins, they operate at supersonic speeds. By the time I turned around when someone yelled ‘penguin’ they vanished into thin air. Just as we boarded the zodiacs to leave, a crying sea lion pup on the shore broke our hearts, wailing and approaching us presumably looking for its mother.
We later got into the water where once again an elusive penguin swiftly glided right by one of my friends as we weaved through schools of vibrant fish by the reefs. I missed it, duh.
Rabida Island
After an hour and a half at sea, we arrived at Rabida Island, a place that looked like Mars but with greenery, thanks to its striking, rusty-red volcanic sand.
We kicked things off by snorkeling right against the red cliffs. The underwater contrast was amazing! Vibrant parrotfish and angelfish dated around the reef against a reddish backdrop. To top it off, a playful sea lion zipped past us while I poked my head out every now and then to photograph marine iguanas sunning on the rocks.
Before making landfall, we drifted slowly on the panga along the rocky shoreline to scout the local bird life. Brown noddies were perched on the rocks looking moody perhaps they were outsmarted by the pelicans and too lazy to hunt, while blue footed boobies animatedly clicked their beaks and flaunted their bright blue feet. What a contrast in mood!
Once ashore, we spotted an American Oystercatcher on the beach but I abandoned it and headed behind the bush toward a hidden saltwater lagoon. The moment the view opened up, I froze when I saw the flamingos and their striking red color and was hit with photographer’s block. After an uninspired photo shoot where I couldn’t figure out what to make of these birds, I gave up and watched cheeked pintail ducks glide across the water and a shrilling shorebird marching away. I put my camera down and headed toward the beach.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, we braced ourselves for an overnight sail to the biggest island in the archipelago, Isabela.
CRAYSCAPE 