A guide to cheese in Tbilisi (Tiflis).
Dinner at Alubali (cherry in Georgian), Georgian restaurant in a hidden courtyard off Ahkvladeli Street that served warm Sulguni cheese I paired with cucumber and tomato salad doused in sunflower oil and coriander. Shota Rustaveli Avenue glittered under Christmas lights in celebration of Orthodox Christmas, blending in with police sirens and massive (peaceful) demonstrations.
I have the cold version of Sulguni cheese for breakfast before an exciting road trip to Gudauri ski town, or so we thought. We spent seven hours on the “The Georgian Military Highway” E117 that goes all the way towards Russia “guided” by a non English speaking tour guide who was on the phone the entire time (both ways). He drove us up the winding road in the Dusheti region once ruled by dukes in the medieval times and gesticulated we get out of the car whenever he stopped at a few scenic spots. I couldn’t help but what wonder what on earth is he going on about on the phone for hours and hours?
The first stop was Zhinvali Reservoir, manufactured after a dam was built in 1985. It wasn’t only the stunning landscape that was fake but also the goods in the lifeless market that was once a bustling town with churches, palaces and markets in the days of yore.
We followed the course of Aragvi river lined by Chinese construction companies while driving up the slopes of the Greater Caucaus Range and stopped at Ananuri fortress. It was named after Ananuri, a legend who saved the people stuck in the castle still standing after surviving umpteen wars and attacks for thousands of years. A lady called Ana who was from Nuri chose to die instead of revealing the whereabouts of a secret tunnel that was used to feed the victims stuck in the castle during one of the sieges. I’m sure Ana didn’t foresee the castle she died for is now a backdrop for TikTok dance videos and tourists risking their lives by walking up narrow stone paths (their phones on video) to the tower and yell obscenities from above.
After twisting and turning around the snowy mountain range jammed with trucks and buses, we finally made it to Gudauri, a ski resort town. Before we knew it, he sped through the town and drove towards a massive monument with no explanation. It was the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument built in 1983, sat in between Gudauri and Jvari Pass. It was hard to make out the story of why the monument was built by looking at the colorful curved mosaic murals. I gave up and indulged in behind the scenes TikTok video parties and tacky photo shoots. The entire valley below was covered in snow dotted by occasional paragliders flying around giving the mountain range a burst of color, a lake shimmering from below.
Kachapuri for dinner at Keto & Kote on Zandukeli Dead End St that served classical Georgian cuisine and sat on a hilltop. We walked through the terrace that overlooked the city roofs and sparkling lights. The gothic interior had an operatic flair about it that complemented the love story it was named after Victor Dolidze who wrote the opera based on a romantic comedy “Khanuma” by a Georgian playwright.
Before we explored the ancient streets of Tbilisi, we had breakfast at Puri Guliani Bakery and Kitchen off Mktvari River popular for Kachapuri they bake later in the day. It was only after we arrived we found out they don’t serve Georgian food before 12pm, so we settled for eggs on toast. We made it up by crossing one of the six bridges over Kura River into the old town stuck in a time warp, the Mother of Georgia looking down at us from all angles. We were headed towards the mosque up on a hill that sat below Narikala Fortress which was under construction at the time and above the 300 year old sulphur baths in between everything that was crumbling down.
Kachapuri, baked the traditional way, at Lolita on Tamar Chovelidze St. We entered the gothic building with a funky cool vibe that conflicted with the bouncer’s attitude problem who pointed towards the large courtyard and open air kitchen designed in black and white tiles. A friendly waiter greeted us and led us away from the cool vibe and into a ruggedly designed dark room with a communal wooden table and one piece of renaissance art work hung on the wall. A few street dogs made an entrance in what used to be a popular art and culture scene and maybe “The Last Supper”.
Later, we follow the Christmas lights and celebrations at Dry Bridge Market before a non cheesy dinner at Shavi Lomi at 28 Zurab Kvlividze St located in the backstreet of an old residential neighborhood on the Left Bank. A large graffiti outside the restaurant brought life and light to the street that was completely dark. We went through the backyard that looked like a run down flea market. At the center of the courtyard, there was a painting of a black lion on the brick wall (Shavi Lomi), a tribute to Niko Pirosmani, a self educated Georgian painter who painted wildlife and humans in simple and abstract art form, was poor and became famous only after he died. He did not even know Picasso created his portrait because he was impressed by his art ! The cozy interior of each dining room was uniquely decorated with old pieces of china and paintings, antique silverware and tables draped with traditional tablecloths. Obviously, it used to be someone’s house, which reminded me of my unreliably sourced roots.
Here, Kachapuri was a pass and we indulged in a variety of regional Georgian dishes mixed in spices exported along the Silk Road. We had the aubergine version of Pikhali, mixed with walnut paste and other spices playing up to traditional Georgian cuisine people stopped cooking when they ate borscht and cutleti during Soviet rule. We had other dishes influenced by Persian and Eastern cuisine; vine leaves stuffed in lamb and lamb kebabs.
No cheese for breakfast at the European inspired Cafe Stamba on Merab Kostava Street. The rustic courtyard, enclosed by Rooms Hotel and Stamba Hotel is a mixture of bricks and industrial style windows. Both hotels (sister properties owned by Adjara Group) exhibit a combination of vintage and modern inspirations. Light emanating from the glassy ceiling of what was once a Soviet printing press building brought in warmth to the wooden interior at Stamba Hotel, intentionally designed to resemble how the sun light hits the stunning architecture that lines Rustaveli Avenue. It felt warm despite it being under 5 degrees C as we walked along the avenue towards Liberty Square also known as Freedom Square and an end to our cheesy quest.
CRAYSCAPE 
I love that you’ve recently been to Georgia despite the protests in Tibilisi. Michael and I considered the city for our getaway, but eventually decided on Istanbul, as it is roughly a 5 hour flight for both of us. I will have to catch two flights to get to Tibilisi, and when we eventually go, I would like to stay for longer and travel around Georgia for at least another week. I get the sense that it is an incredibly interesting and gorgeous country, especially in the mountains where you went too.
It definitely has an interesting history and one I would go back to learn more about the variety of culture and food by visiting towns/villages outside Tbilisi, likely towards Azerbaijan, Armenia and Turkey via train. This was a short trip – we were lucky they were celebrating Orthodox Christmas so the lights were still on, otherwise I don’t think the Main Street would be as vibrant.
I think the mountains in Spring/Summer are super beautiful. It was covered in snow when we were there – I prefer the greener landscape if there’s no wildlife around.
I also find that whole area quite interesting, both regarding its history, but also its incredible landscapes. Michael and I have only been to Baku, and we loved it. I really would like to have more time to, like you, explore the region.
It’s beautiful! There’s also Ali and Nino memorabilia everywhere…Hope you and Michael get to visit the region..