Day 5 – Genovesa Island
From Bartolome Island, we sailed East to Genovesa on an overnight rollercoaster toward a horseshoe-shaped island defined by sharp volcanic cliffs towering like a crown above turquoise waters. The Ecuadorians named this place to honor Genoa, Italy, the birthplace of Christopher Colombus. Oh my, it was not just discovering the New World but more like stumbling into a paradise built on fire and feather.
We stepped ashore onto an underground volcano showing off its collapsed crater where the ocean rushed in to form Darwin’s Bay. The three-kilometer roundtrip hike felt like an eternity because every inch of this island demanded a double-take. Sea lions lay like stones at the water’s edge and swallow tailed gulls kept watch on crab-laden rocks. Great frigatebirds, red footed boobies, Nazca Boobies and long tailed tropic birds weaved through the clouds, carrying twigs and branches to build their nests. Pelicans regularly dove face first into the surf, shattering the sea for anchovies before resting easy on the crest of the waves.
Beneath us, lay a sheet of shiny lava glass – dark, polished and balancing perfectly with the soft white sand. The smoky plumage of a single lava gull blended seamlessly with the terrain that it could have been from the volcano itself. The furnace below is not dead though, it still exhales its molten lava into this island.
Our quiet photoshoot was shattered by a wild cacophony of Great frigatebirds who became the spotlight. The males gazed to the skies, thrusting forward inflated throats that looked like scarlet balloons. They produced a frantic high piched drumming, whenever they vibrated their bills aggressively against their own inflated chests. The females nonchalant.
We then searched the fractured walls of dark basalt rocks where lava herons stood like frozen statues melted into the shadows and perfectly camouflaged. Nearby, swallow-tailed gulls tucked themselves into the crevices, their wide eyes pleading for privacy. Just above, the landscape softened its attitude: In the bright greenery of the bushes, Darwin’s finches chirped sweetly, fluttering in between the leaves or cacti too fast for my shutter speed to catch. Galapagos doves became a common sight on every island.
As we climbed higher toward the summit, the path gave way to massive boulders. Great frigatebirds sat watchful and at one point, a fluffy white chick surprised us by poking its little head out like a cotton ball. Nearby, red-footed boobies balanced atop the green canopy exposing their red feet.
For three and a half hours, time stood still on this special sanctuary. The sun grew hot enough to be bordering unbearable, but the cheerful birds carried on and sparkled under the heat.
Prince Phillip’s Steps (El Barranco), Genovesa Island
Leaving Genovesa, we tracked the rugged coastline toward Prince Phillip’s Steps, a wall of volcanic rock rising from the sea. We climbed the same steep staircase that the Prince himself climbed in 1964 and 1970 drawn by the desire to protect wildlife. Before we could reach the top, playful Galapagos fur seals were twisting their sleek bodies in the water while red-billed tropic birds cut through the sky at incredible speed before disappearing into cliff crevices to tend to their hidden nests.
We reached the top and I had one burning hope: to catch a glimpse of the island’s most elusive species, the Galapagos short-eared owl. The island delivered. It was deep within the sanctuary of a volcanic cave, the first owl rested with serene indifference. Occasionally, it would slowly stretch its limb, its eyes closed completely untroubled by the barrage of camera lenses. Word was another owl was out on the prowl. Across the expanse of basalt, a colony of storm petrels fluttered frantically and were kept on their toes. From a distance, we watched a “hunt”. It was a bad day for the owl and the little bird survived.
Meanwhile, Nazca Boobies dominated the open plain, either riding solo or gathering on boulders clicking beaks. Low sun rays caught the red-footed boobies balancing on leaves, beautifully exposing the pastel colors of their faces. The whole place teemed with life, but our two kilometer round trip came to an end. As a crimson sky settled over the horizon, we made our way back to the ship setting sail for Santa Cruz. Our next pursuit? Patrolling the mangroves and getting a proper education on the conservationists protecting this wild paradise.
CRAYSCAPE 